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Landscape Thread - The August "To Do" List

Sirhornsalot

**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
Joined
Nov 6, 2013
Messages
33,310
August heat is upon us, looks like summer finally arrived with all this 100 degree heat we’re having. That said, fall will be here before you know it so below is a list of things to do this month.

With water restrictions, heat like this can be brutal. Now is a good time to check and make sure your sprinkler system is operating properly.

- On Labor Day, change your sprinkler settings from evening waterings to morning waterings. This is especially important if you have St Augustine turf. This will help you avoid having a fungus develop in your lawn which normally happens in September-October.

- Your second round of pre-emergent should go down this month. You can put this down anytime between now and end of month. It will not harm your lawn in this heat.

- Your third round of fertilizer should be applied at the end of the month. Use a lower number on the nitrogen for this application. For St Augustine/Zoysia, you’re looking for about a 15-17. For Bermuda, no higher than 25. Apply your fertilizer at slightly lower than the recommended rate. So if your spreader setting is supposed to be 4, go with 3.5 instead. Nitrogen helps grass grow, but it also helps fungus grow. So we want to be careful not to spread too much.

- Chinch Bugs are already active, but normally are in full force by third week of August. You will recognize their presence by turf that looks like it’s burning up in spotty, random fashion and will likely be near a sidewalk or street curb/concrete source. Products like Mallet or Bifedrin (liquids) will knock out Chinch bugs as will granulars like arena or dylox.

- St Augustine/Zoysia lawns are often helped with an application of granular fungicide this month. This acts as some insurance against the possible development of fungus which becomes a higher risk during September/October.

- Remember to not only change your sprinkler settings from evening to morning on Labor Day, but also reduce your watering by a day when temperatures drop back down into the 90s on a consistent basis. August-September is a transition period where days become shorter, nights become cooler and longer and evaporation slows down. These factors combined are ideal for fungus development.

Below, lawn fungus

fungus.jpg


- For you Bermuda lawn owners who enjoy a nice thick Winter Rye lawn in the winter, late September will be the time when you want to overseed with the Winter Rye. I mention this now because Winter Rye seed is one of those products where the early bird gets the worm. If you overseed in October, you’re probably buying a lower grade seed mix.

- If you think you may need to have your trees trimmed, between now and November is the ideal time. You want to get this done before your trees drop their leaves. If we have a hard winter, you’ll be glad you had this done.

- Do not be afraid to skip a week of mowing during this high heat period. I keep my St Augustine at about 3.25 inches. But when it’s 100 outside, I will often let it go two weeks between mows just to keep it healthier. Each time you mow, your lawn may look nice but it’s also at risk during 100 degree temps. If you have the luxury of watering when you want to - do so right after mowing. It speeds the healing process as mowing grass is actually inflicting a wound. Water helps it recover quickly.

Here’s a couple of questions I’ve fielded in the last week or so:

Question - I have a stump located next to my house that I need to have grinded. How do I go about this?

Answer - You don’t. A stump grinder is a very large machine and it requires a certain amount of space to operate in. A stump against the house doesn’t allow enough space without some type of damage occurring. However, what you can do is take a drill and drill several holes into the stump. Then, pour Epsom Salts into the holes and leave it there. The Epsom Salts will suck out all of the moisture in the stump so that the wood goes dry and rots. Once rotten, you can knock it out with a hatchet or even a hammer.

Question - Grasshoppers have invaded my back yard landscape. They’re eating my Palms, which I have 7 of them. What can I do?

Answer - Grasshoppers can literally destroy a beautiful landscape in a very short amount of time. I recommend that you install netting over the Palms and any other plant that they’re feeding on. You’ll want to get the 1/4†size netting or smaller so the littler critters can’t sneak their way through the holes. Additionally, apply a product called “No-Lo Bait†to areas AWAY from the Palms. This product will attract the grasshoppers away from the Palms (because you put it away from them) and once they ingest it, they will not produce viable young and their appetite is decreased dramatically. Fort Worth and it’s northern suburbs have been hit hard this year for some reason.

Question - I have a Maple that I planted two years ago. Each of those two years it has had its leaves turn brown and drop before the fall season began. Why does this happen and what do I need to do to stop it? I want my fall color!

Below, an example of the Maple leaf condition as mentioned in the above question.

cutcaster-photo-100807667-Leaf-Edges-Curl-Autumn-Enters.jpg


Answer - The past two years we’ve had drought conditions with high heat. The lack of moisture or reduced moisture combined with high heat will cause a Maple (any type of Maple) to instinctively give up its leaves, starting with the outer layer. This is a self-defense mechanism and is perfectly normal. However, it also tells you the tree has been stressed. This year, we’ve had an increase in rainfall and not so many days in the 100s. So Maples should be doing better everywhere unless they’re a first or second year specimen. By year three, this problem usually goes away as they’re more established by then. Japanese Maples will behave the same way. To increase the likelihood of good fall color, supplement your Maple’s watering by using either a Gator bag or by “dripping†the root ball using a water hose for a couple hours. Don’t overdo it as you don’t want to cause a root rot. The dripping can be done once a week and provide effective results in October/November.

I'll take any questions you might have, no matter how trivial you may think they are. Someone else may have the same issue as you and gain benefit from you asking!

Also, would love to hear about the results of everyone's home gardens so far. My fall tomatoes are now about two feet high, just now seeing some blooms but the high heat has kept them from really taking off. My bell peppers are doing very well. One plant right now has 9 peppers on it, all the same size!

How's your stuff doing? Post pictures if you have them!

 
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Given the temps & water restrictions, how often should I water potted plants?

Every other day as long as we're in the 100s or high 90s. Potted plants dry out three times as fast as plants that are in the ground. So they need to be watered much more often.

 
Mark, when is the best time to trim my Crape Myrtles?

Crapes are on an ongoing mission to become a large shrub. LOL This is why they are constantly growing "suckers" at the base of the tree and all up the trunks. These need to be removed as fast as they sprout out so that's a week-to-week thing.

Crapes are relatively fast growers so they will sometimes grow limbs out to the point where they sag. They should be trimmed when this happens.

Otherwise, the major yearly trim needs to happen in February, before the tree sprouts out it's new spring growth.

I DO NOT advise "hacking" the Crapes off. I recommend either trimming them just as you would any other tree - or - gnubbing them about 2-3 inches above the nuckles.

 
Too cool

5umh8.gif


This is awesome. What control.

gif-tree-chainsaw-accuracy-1352669.gif


And then there's this guy:

gifs-chuck-norris-stops-a-chainsaw-bare-handed-06kbn.gif


 
Ok folks, it's getting toward the end of the season (nursery-wise) and I have an inventory of plants I'd like to move. I've reduced prices here, in some cases WAY reduced, so there are no warranties.

1. I have 3-4 Rosemary in a 3 gallon size I'll sell for $5 each. Retails for $19.00

2. I have 3 Pampas Grass in a 7 gallon size I'll sell for $5 each. I have recently trimmed these back to get rid of some dead growth. Retail cost is $32.50 each.

3. I have 3 Variegated Ginger in a 3 gallon I'll sell for $10 each. These are in perfect health and look awesome. Retails for $25.00 each.

4. I have a 15 gallon Blue Point Juniper I'll sell for $40. Again, in perfect health and looks great. Retails for $120.00

5. I have a Turk's Cap in a 3 gallon size I'll sell for $3. Plant is in great shape. Retails for $22.00

6. I have two Dwarf Yaupon Hollies that I'll sell for $7 each. Perfect health, looks. 3 gallon size. Retail cost is $16.00 each.

7. I have one 3 gallon Dwarf Maiden Grass I'll throw in free. It could look better, it just needs to be planted and will be fine.

8. I have a 30 gallon Pindo Palm I'll sell for $70. I trimmed some winter damage off this one back in early spring. It's well on its way to growing it all back. Retail cost is $450.00

If interested in any of these, shoot me an email to greenthumbtx@verizon.net

 
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Also, I have a pair of 3 gallon Variegated Pittisporums for $10 each. Nursery condition, retails for $25.00

These deals are exclusive to Hornsports.com members (pay or free) only for now.

 
Mark, what's your stance on using the pruning tar/spray after trimming trees? Some say use it, some say it can seal in harmful bugs/fungus/infective material (?) if used. Maybe it depends on the time of year you are trimming, ie the wrong time of year and needs sealed to protect. I used it this year, but not last years trimming.

 
Mark, what's your stance on using the pruning tar/spray after trimming trees? Some say use it, some say it can seal in harmful bugs/fungus/infective material (?) if used. Maybe it depends on the time of year you are trimming, ie the wrong time of year and needs sealed to protect. I used it this year, but not last years trimming.
I'm against it but only because the latest science says that applying pruning seal disrupts the tree's natural healing process.

So we don't use it.

When you trim a tree, you're cutting at the collars which is a natural location of separation for the tree. For example, in a wind storm, a tree branch will break and fall to the ground. The tree will then send special enzymes to that limb to rot the rest of it off to the collar. So when you cut at the collar, the tree has an instinctive response that heals the wound.

However, if you have wounds on the sides of the trunk such as what a buck will do when he's rutting, you may want to apply it then as that is not a natural wound for the tree.

 
I'm against it but only because the latest science says that applying pruning seal disrupts the tree's natural healing process.

So we don't use it.

When you trim a tree, you're cutting at the collars which is a natural location of separation for the tree. For example, in a wind storm, a tree branch will break and fall to the ground. The tree will then send special enzymes to that limb to rot the rest of it off to the collar. So when you cut at the collar, the tree has an instinctive response that heals the wound.

However, if you have wounds on the sides of the trunk such as what a buck will do when he's rutting, you may want to apply it then as that is not a natural wound for the tree.
Thanks Mark, should've consulted before using the sealant. I guess I will save $5 next year when I trim the trees again.

 
What type of granular fungicide do you recommend for St Augustine lawns?

Fungicide is not grass-specific. Any fungicide works on any lawn.

For normal outbreaks of fungus, use Eagle 20 Fungicide. Comes in both liquid and granular. Liquid version will help stop fungus immediately while the granular would help make sure there are no resurgent cases down the road.

For a more serious fungus issue, Headway WG is a granular product that kills any fungus of any type. It's a heavy duty product that you would only use in the worst of fungus cases. It kills all fungus, good and bad.

Don't know where you are located but let me know if you have any trouble finding those products.

 
Allow me to make a personal announcement as I'm pretty happy right now.

A couple of months ago I had my cholesterol tested and came in high at 322 with an LDL of 230. Was put on Lipitor.

Today, re-test results arrived and came in at 162!

 
Mark,

I have a pretty good amount of crab grass mixed in with my St. Augustine grass.  What is the best way to get rid of the crab grass or keep it from spreading?  Is your statement about applying a second round of pre-emergent related to this?

Thanks!

 
Mark,

I have a pretty good amount of crab grass mixed in with my St. Augustine grass.  What is the best way to get rid of the crab grass or keep it from spreading?  Is your statement about applying a second round of pre-emergent related to this?

Thanks!

You can spray the crabgrass with a product like Celsius WG. It kills crabgrass and is what we use to accomplish that. You would need to mix in a surfactant like Surfac 820 to make the chemical stick to the blades (waterproof it) for a more thorough kill.

Celsius will not kill St Augustine. You would want to spray when it's not 100 though. Mornings or evenings are best times to do it. Spraying when its that hot will cause the turf grass to burn some.

Pre-emergent is a product that sterilizes the soil so that weed seeds from weeds like crabgrass cannot germinate and reproduce. We apply this granular three times a year (Feb, Aug, Nov) so that we can have it down prior to the germination periods. This does indeed help to curtail future crabgrass in your lawn.

I'm attaching a link for the Celsius. It's rather expensive which is why most doityourselfers will stop and call a landscaper to do this instead.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/celsius-wg-herbicide-p-1923.html

 
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