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July Landscape Thread - Water savers!

Sirhornsalot

**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
Joined
Nov 6, 2013
Messages
33,324
July Water Saving Tips!

Folks, it was 100 today in DFW for the first time this year. Thank your lucky stars it took this long to get there. I am hoping our summer remains as damp as it’s been, but I’m not holding my breath.

First, some ways to combat the heat for your turf:

1. Raise your mower blade to 3-3.5 inches. St Augustine and Zoysia turf especially benefit from raising your mower blades during the months of July and August. Keeping your turf higher will allow moisture to stay in the turf for a longer period of time as the taller blades shade the soil surface from the sun’s baking rays.

2. Move your watering start times to late evening through July and August. This will allow the turf to benefit from the water for hours longer as opposed to morning waterings. Mark your calendars now to move back to morning waterings on LABOR DAY.

3. It is helpful to water your lawn immediately after it’s mowed. ASAP also works, even if only five minutes. The point is - when the blades of turf are cut, it’s the equivalent of an open wound for a human. Grass recovers much quicker than humans and water is the quick answer. When a lawn is mowed and is allowed to go a few days in the sun without water, the tips of the blades will burn and turn brown, splitting and fraying. This leads to stress.

4. If you’re under twice a week water restrictions, you can run four cycles over those two days and get your four waterings is, if needed. One watering day one, set a cycle for 12:01 a.m. and then another cycle for the following evening at 7:01 p.m. Repeat this on the second day, again if needed.

5. Do not fertilize during July. It’s just too hot and nitrogen just makes a lawn thirstier than normal. Additionally, a lawn can “burn†in these temperatures with the heat.

hydretain_header_900x300.jpg


Example of before and after Hydretain treatment

6. Hydretain is a product that I’ll again highly recommend. You can learn more at www.hydretain.com. A poster on another site known as “Wooderson†is a customer of mine. Last year we applied Hydretain to his lawn. He is in sales and travels a lot. In one instance he left town and forgot to program his sprinkler system. Three weeks later he returned and discovered the goof. Yet, his lawn was still green and thick. He was impressed enough to write me about it.

Weed Eating

Watch for this. About mid-season many lawns will begin experiencing what is known as St Augustine Recession. This is noticed at the edging of flower beds where St Augustine turf once butted right up to the edging, but has receded back several inches.

This is actually caused by a weed eater that is being angled down toward the ground on the bed border side. Initially, this looks ok but over weeks will cause the St Augustine to begin withdrawing from the border. Most homeowners don’t notice until it’s bad. This is remedied by addressing it with your lawn service and asking them to level out the weed eater. The turf at the borders should be the same height as the turf in the middle of the lawn.

The Next Insect To Watch For - The Chinch Bug

Chinch Bugs have already started feeding in small numbers. Most homeowners have no idea what they are or what they do. They are a small insect that feeds on the moisture of St Augustine and Bermuda turf grass. They normally begin feeding in late August and evidence of their damage/presence can be seen most often near concrete sources (sidewalks, driveways, stone bordering) because those places are hotter than other locations in the lawn. Chinch’s enjoy the heat. You can test for chinch by using an old trick of a coffee can and soapy water.

chinchbugs_clip1.jpg


Chinch Bug damage shown near concrete driveway. Chinch Bug up close (inset)

Chinch will leave turf looking almost burnt, like someone took a blow torch and burned it. All the moisture is removed from the grass, killing it.

Chinch can be treated successfully but as always, retail products are going to require repeated use. 

Trimming Oaks

The March through June window where it is not safe to trim oak trees is over. Oak trees are vulnerable to Oak Wilt during this time and open wounds on trees makes them much more threatened. However, it is best to wait until early fall to trim if possible.

Seasonal Flowers

Seasonal flowers such as Begonias or Perriwinkles or Wave Petunias and such as not invincible. They may require some additional watering during the hot months of July and August. If you feel a fertilizer is in order, go mild and apply lightly and make sure you provide plenty of water afterwards.

Some questions that have come in over the past few weeks:

Question - Can I plant shrubs and trees during July when it’s hot?

Answer - Absolutely. Just know that you’ll need to supplement the watering in the first month. Don’t expect a lot of growth but as fall approaches that will pick up.

Question - Is it too late to trim my roses?

Answer - Yes, it really is. Trimming them now will stress them as the leaves that once protected the base and interior of the plant are gone, more heat gets in = quicker evaporation. Wait until early fall.

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Question - Is it okay to sod right now with it being as hot as it is?

Answer - Yes, and I wouldn’t hesitate. St Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia turf LOVE heat. You provide heat, sun, and water and you’ll get successful turf. All you have to do is provide the water. You need to water every day for the first two weeks (evenings), then water as you would the rest of your lawn. You can add drought tolerance to your lawn for the long term by adding Expanded Shale to the soil surface before laying down the sod. Once the sod is down, you can apply Hydretain to give it even more drought tolerance for the here and now. DO NOT fertilize sod until after 90 days from installation.

 
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I switched the sprinklers from the sprayers to the micro soaker houses ad an experiment. The heads are screw on replacements with either two or four outlets. The hose is about 1/4" and costs about $6 for 50'. I really don't have a clue to set it all up for a 15 minute watering cycle.

Any suggestions what flow rate I should choose for the soaker hose being used on flower beds and the max suggested length of a run of hose? Should I even be trying to go with micro soaker hoses instead of sprayers?

 
I switched the sprinklers from the sprayers to the micro soaker houses ad an experiment. The heads are screw on replacements with either two or four outlets. The hose is about 1/4" and costs about $6 for 50'. I really don't have a clue to set it all up for a 15 minute watering cycle.

Any suggestions what flow rate I should choose for the soaker hose being used on flower beds and the max suggested length of a run of hose? Should I even be trying to go with micro soaker hoses instead of sprayers?

The benefit of drip lines is the lack of waste and reduced evaporation. So with those goals in mind, yes they are worth it. They are versatile because they can be moved/changed at your discretion. The cons are that they're not real attractive to look at. So cover them with mulch.

You need to pay close attention to how the drip runs through your plantings, making sure that the plants get the water they need by positioning the line correctly over the root balls. I would run a length down and a length back in your beds (having seen them myself), putting the line on both sides of the root ball (over the ball on one side, then over it again on the other side with the return run). Once installed, make sure you mulch.

You'll need to remember that it takes a while to move water through a drip line as opposed to a sprinkler line/head. It's a much slower process. So while you used to water for 15 minutes on that zone using sprinkler heads, you'd now want to water for 50 mins or so using the drip lines. Fifty minutes is where I'd start. I would expect that time to grow to an hour with this heat and depending on frequency.

Another thing I like about soaker hoses - you can't tell when they're on and when they're not so no one turns you in for watering on the wrong day :)

 
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I've got brown patches in spots, about the size of a dessert plate, and the grass just dies.  One lawn guy says it's from my dogs, another says the dogs will fertilize.  The thing is, the dogs are in both the front and back yards, and the only problem shows up in the back.

It's mostly Zoysia in the back, and bermuda in the front, and the one guy says it's the dogs, and zoysia is more succeptable.

Any ideas?  It's weird like I said because pups go both in front and back, and these things are almost perfectly round.

 
I've got brown patches in spots, about the size of a dessert plate, and the grass just dies.  One lawn guy says it's from my dogs, another says the dogs will fertilize.  The thing is, the dogs are in both the front and back yards, and the only problem shows up in the back.

It's mostly Zoysia in the back, and bermuda in the front, and the one guy says it's the dogs, and zoysia is more succeptable.

Any ideas?  It's weird like I said because pups go both in front and back, and these things are almost perfectly round.

It's likely not your dogs.

Dog poop has no redeemable value to your turf or to the soil. It's worthless.

Dog urine is not an issue in most cases for turf. However, a female dog in heat or about to go into heat has a more potent (high ammonia) urine and can burn turf that way. Male dogs pose no threat to your turf.

Your female dog(s) would have to go in the same places over and over again to really damage them though.

I am suspecting that you have a grub worm issue instead. They began feeding early this year, late May, and will continue to feed through mid-August. I would apply a grub kill asap and perhaps a second application the following week.

Zoysia is very similar to St Augustine in that grubs prefer to feed off that turf than Bermuda. This explains why you're not getting the same damage in front. Grubs will eat Bermuda, but St Aug and Zoysia are their favorites.

The only other thing that causes me pause about your post is the fact you describe a perfectly round area of damage. That normally indicates a fungus issue. However, fungus is VERY uncommon this time of year. It would be highly abnormal for that to be fungus right now. That said, I am curious about your lawn services' lawn mower. Many mowers will dip their mower as they make a turn. Some less than well maintained mowers will spill oil when this turn happens, killing the turf that it spills on. I've seen it happen before many times. I would ask about it if for no other reason than making them check it out.

 
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Thanks a bunch - I didn't think it was the dogs -

Had several different lawn services - I'm betting it's the grub like you said.

Thanks a bunch, Hook 'em!

 
I may have misunderstood your watering instructions.  I thought one should water deeply and infrequently.  I presently (July, August & Sept) water twice/week for about 1 hour per section (two small areas seem to stress between watering).  I have the benefit of having ample water available but I'm unsure about the optimum frequency and duration.  My lawn is mostly St. Augustine, soil is deep, deep sand.  It is hard to over water my yard.  Any watering recommendations would be greatly appreciated. 

thanks  gmcc

 
I may have misunderstood your watering instructions.  I thought one should water deeply and infrequently.  I presently (July, August & Sept) water twice/week for about 1 hour per section (two small areas seem to stress between watering).  I have the benefit of having ample water available but I'm unsure about the optimum frequency and duration.  My lawn is mostly St. Augustine, soil is deep, deep sand.  It is hard to over water my yard.  Any watering recommendations would be greatly appreciated. 

thanks  gmcc

I assume you are manually watering? If so, those times are good as you have some advantages that sprinkler system owners do not.

If you have some "hot spots" in the lawn you can add an additional day for those, but not nearly as long as the other two days.

If you have a sprinkler system, then that long period of time would be too much as the sprays of the heads constantly hit the same place which creates run-off after about 15 mins.

That Hydretain would be helpful to your lawn given that you have so much sand and quick drainage. The Hydretain would keep a lot of that moisture around, makes the turf spongier.

 
I have many bugs and insects all over my garden. Is this normal?  Does it need treatment?  

I really enjoy reading your Landscape threads Mark.  You're turning this city girl into a green thumb!

 

That depends. Your lawn and landscape are like a little city for insects. There are diverse varieties of them and they represent a food chain of sorts as many of them prey on other insects. When that diversity gets out of whack and the bad bugs start winning - yes, you're garden is in trouble.

You did not describe to me anything showing evidence/damage on your garden plants. So it really depends on that. If your plants have holes in the leaves, missing parts of the leaves, etc., then you should probably look very closely throughout and find out which critter is at work on your stuff.

I just recently discovered my squash plants had aphids. I simply went down to Lowes and bought some Sevin and sprayed the plants. I checked them again each day and on day 2, a few were back. So I reapplied. However, by that time heat had set in and my stressed squash plants were pretty much done for.

Sevin is a nice product for such insects. It's in a red bottle in the insect product section in Lowes (inside the building). They offer a simple ready to use spray bottle which gives you more control over what you're spraying. You can avoid spraying any fruit with it.

In the future, if you want to go natural/organic, I would recommend you buy some beneficial nematodes which you can find at Calloways. Just release them in the lawn in a shady area and they will go far in taking care of bad insects, even fleas. If you want to put them in your garden, wait until the shady time of day to release them.

I'm so glad you've been enjoying these threads. I enjoy helping others achieve success in the garden/lawn/landscape. It warms my heart to read comments like yours. Thank you. :)

 
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Mark,

Tell me more about this Hydretain product.  I have a mainly St Augustine lawn with some Bermuda mixed in.

Thanks.

Hydretain
Hydretain
 
Am I suppose to individually spray each leaf?  That seems very time consuming.  
Yes, but it should offer you the option of a spray instead of a stream. You want to pay particular attention to the undersides of the leaves.

You can buy the same product as a water hose attachment, screws onto the end of your hose.

 
Mark,

Tell me more about this Hydretain product.  I have a mainly St Augustine lawn with some Bermuda mixed in.

Thanks.

Hydretain
Hydretain

Oh it's great for St Augustine lawns.

www.hydretain.com

However, what you'll see at that website is liquid versions of the product. Not sure why but they only sell the granular version to contractors. We sell and apply the granular version.

Either way, it's applied. Watered in. It sinks into the turf soil and attaches to the roots. It then forms a water bubblet which oxidizes water as it is passed to the plant (grass).

Notice that when it rains, your lawn and landscape look SO much better than when it does after you've run your sprinkler system? That's because rain water is oxidized while tap water is not. Oxidized water allows plants to intake more nutrients, thus they become healthier.

One treatment lasts for three months. It will not harm people or pets in any way. It has no odor. It is biodegradable. It came out about three years ago. This is our second year with the product. This is not the same thing as the AquaSmart sold in Lowes or Home Depot. That's a completely different product.

 
If rain is expected after a somewhat protracted dry spell, would aerating the yard with a spading fork make any difference? I have been told doing so will allow water from expected rains reach deeper in the soil and help the soil retain water. 

 
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