Sirhornsalot
**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2013
- Messages
- 33,575
After the historic rainfall Texas received during the last half of May, many homeowners have discovered that their homes are vulnerable to minor/major flooding. You may be one of them.
The following are some tips on how to remedy some potential flood issues that you previously may not have known existed.
1. Foundation line – the foundation line of your house is a key point in your ability to keep water out of your home. The soil that meets your foundation should be at least three inches below the top of the foundation, or the foundation line. What generally happens over time is that the homeowner replaces plants and mulch in the beds that butt up to the home and the next thing you know, the soil is at or above the foundation line.
The foundation is made of a solid piece of concrete. It will not allow water into the home in itself. However, the brick or stone on the home is made with mortar, which is porous and will allow water through. When the soil sits at or above the foundation line, water easily penetrates the mortar and goes into the home.
Notice you cannot see the foundation on this house as the soil is now resting over the first mortar joint. Water will easily get into the interior of this home.
2. Declined grading surrounding the home – Your home should have been built on a slab that is elevated above the surrounding property. The soil surrounding the home should decline away from the home. Again, over time, various factors will cause the grade to be adjusted or changed. Such as sodding and resodding areas of your lawn. This should be checked and if you don’t feel comfortable gauging that, consult with a landscape professional or foundation specialist.
Most home inspectors will red flag items 1 and 2 when the time comes to sell a home.
3. Even if you have items 1 and 2 covered, your home’s location may still be prone to flooding for a variety of reasons. In these instances, one should consider having a drainage system installed. There are several types of drains and combinations to consider. I recommend using at least 4†PVC piping rather than the corrugated black pastil variety. The PVC will outlast the black plastic and the plastic will crush (foot traffic) and clog easier.
In cases where large volumes of water must be dealt with, go to a 6†drainage pipe. Install drain basin with large grates in areas of accumulating water. A French Drain is another way of handling/moving drain water. It is essentially the same type of 4†PVC pipe but with perforation (holes) for water intake. A trench is dug, lined with landscape cloth and partially filled with lime gravel (or other gravel). The piping is encased in a sock (thin white cloth) to keep out soil, then the pipe is covered in the same lime gravel. A thin layer of sod can be placed over the drain to hide its existence.
A French Drain being installed, above.
4. Tie in your gutter downspouts to your drain system. This carries the water away from the home before it has a chance to become an issue. In some cases this may not be possible, but if the majority of the downspouts can be deposited into the drain system, the flooding risk is greatly reduced.
5. Emitters – These are commonly sold at the national franchise home improvement stores. They are the attachment placed at the end of the drain line which, by force of water, pops up and allows water to exit the drain system. However, with a lack of enough force, the pop up in not engaged and water is trapped in your drain system. Emitters are inherently restrictive by design.
6. If you have a drain system already in place, you must maintain it by clearing it once or twice a year. You can do this by simply removing the surface drain grates and flush out the debris in the pipes using a water hose at full capacity. If you have a second spigot you can use, a second flow will enhance your cleaning ability. Start at the drain furtherest from the water exit and work your way towards the end of the line. You can force the hose further and further, slowly, and get best results.
Some homes which have flooded recently could have avoided the heartache had their drains been properly maintenanced and clear.
After Effects of the Monsoon
While many, like myself, are celebrating the recent restoration of our lakes and groundwater sources via the historic rains, therein comes with it some things that we’ll soon be dealing with. Such as . . .
Insects
The environment is ripe for an insect population explosion. Right now, you may have noticed a larger than number of spiders and spider webs around your property. They know whats up. LOL Insects thrive where there’s moisture, heat and plenty of food. The rains have supplied the moisture and the vegetation that it brings. Be on the lookout for . . .
Scale – A white crusty substance you’ll want to check your Crape Myrtles and shrubbery for is actually an insect known as Scale. It feeds on the moisture of the host plant and will cause significant damage and even death in large infestations. Additionally, it secretes a sugary substance which draws in other unwanted insects, such as ants, which feed on the sugary substance.
Aphids – Like Scale, Aphids are an insect that will feed on Crape Myrtles, shrubbery and other small trees. They are small and can be green or black. They also feed on the plant’s moisture, causing significant damage. They also secrete a sugary substance which draws other insects in.
In the case of both the Scale and Aphids, a product readily available under several brand names called Malathion will knock out them out. For more assurance, treat twice, two weeks apart. Be sure to wear gloves and eyewear for protection. The product does carry a stark odor.
Fungus
Some homeowners may be seeing evidence of turf fungus in the lawn, namely brown patch or take-all patch or dollarspot. The diseases can be cured with a simple application of liquid or granular fungicide. However, with the increase in temperatures and drier weather, most any lawn fungus will not survive very much longer under those conditions.
Other plants in the landscape, such as Indian Hawthorns, Red Tip Photinas, Hollies and Crape Myrtles will suffer from a variety of other fungal diseases which will continue through the heat, thanks to the canopies the host provides.
Black Spot – Black spot is easy to identify as its name is the symptom it leaves behind. It is easily remedied with liquid fungicide treatments applied to the leaves and also poured at the base of the plant (systemically). Once leaves are infected with black spot, it will not clear up. The leaf will eventually die and drop, new ones will grow to replace.
Powerdery mildew – Another fungal disease that will be observed on the leaves on the plants. It also looks like its name indicates, a white powdery substance covering large portions of the leaves. This is also remedied using liquid fungicide.
Black Soot mold – A fungal disease that will attack both the leaves and the trunks/limbs of the plant. The leaves and woody sections will darken to a look resembling fireplace soot. This disease block photosynthesis from occurring and slowly causes decline and death. In addition to spraying a fungicide, it is also necessary to remove a large percentage of the soot from the plant using a soft, wet washcloth.
While fungus is easily treated, if left untreated it can cause damage and decline.
Chemically speaking . . .
It’s now time to apply that second round of fertilizer or weed/feed to your lawn. You’ve got through end of June to get it done. You’ll want to stick with a milder fertilizer this round as we head into the hottest months.
Do not feed your bedding plants anything with nitrogen in it at this time. Wait until the end of summer.
If you have not done so already, apply a grub killer to your lawn this month. Grubs typically begin feeding in June, but in some locations in Texas they began feeding very early. Most grub killers will kill other insects in the turf as well.
It is now hot enough for most weed killers to be effective. Stick to the recommended ratio when mixing so that you won’t burn turf.
Powerwashing . . .
Any homeowner can create a “new†look in their outdoor environment by simply reclaiming what was once new. Whether it be a picket fence or a flagstone or concrete patio complex, power washing can bring back the look you loved when it was installed.
Powerwashers can be rented from most equipment rental companies. You can rent for 2-4 hours or rent an entire day (24 hrs). I recommend you rent one with 3000 psi which will remove most anything you run into in concrete or wood.
Powerwashers will come with a wand and hose, but you will need to supply your own water hose. Operation is easy, but safety precautions should be observed. At 3000 psi, one can remove their toes rather easily if they’re not paying attention to what they’re doing.
I am often asked what pre-treatment I use. I’m sure they work fine but honestly, we haven’t needed to use them. I would assume the higher psi resolves that issue.
Question & Answer time . . .
Question: My petunias have bit the dust as soon as the temperatures got hot down here. What can I plant to replace them now that we’re in the middle of the season?
Answer: Your safest bet is going to be Begonias, if you can still find them. As the season wears on, the availability of flowers becomes more and more scarce. So don’t wait long. Pentas would also be a nice option. Both will see you through the end of summer.
Question: My new Autumn Blaze Maple, planted three weeks ago, now has some spots on the leaves. Not all the leaves, but about 1/3 of them. These are black spots, small in size. What’s wrong and what do I need to do?
Answer: That’s a fungus issue. However, treatment is likely not necessary as we’re heading into the hot part of the season. Conditions for that fungus to continue are increasingly less favorable. The leaves that have been affected will not go back to their original state. Eventually they will drop as new growth comes.
Question: With all the rain we’ve had so far, should I even be watering? I’ve had my sprinkler system turned off for the past month.
Answer: Yes, you should still be watering. Right now, I would recommend twice a week at 15 mins per zone (sprays) and 45 mins per zone (180 rotors). During weeks when we get rain, you can reduce that accordingly.
The following are some tips on how to remedy some potential flood issues that you previously may not have known existed.
1. Foundation line – the foundation line of your house is a key point in your ability to keep water out of your home. The soil that meets your foundation should be at least three inches below the top of the foundation, or the foundation line. What generally happens over time is that the homeowner replaces plants and mulch in the beds that butt up to the home and the next thing you know, the soil is at or above the foundation line.
The foundation is made of a solid piece of concrete. It will not allow water into the home in itself. However, the brick or stone on the home is made with mortar, which is porous and will allow water through. When the soil sits at or above the foundation line, water easily penetrates the mortar and goes into the home.
Notice you cannot see the foundation on this house as the soil is now resting over the first mortar joint. Water will easily get into the interior of this home.
2. Declined grading surrounding the home – Your home should have been built on a slab that is elevated above the surrounding property. The soil surrounding the home should decline away from the home. Again, over time, various factors will cause the grade to be adjusted or changed. Such as sodding and resodding areas of your lawn. This should be checked and if you don’t feel comfortable gauging that, consult with a landscape professional or foundation specialist.
Most home inspectors will red flag items 1 and 2 when the time comes to sell a home.
3. Even if you have items 1 and 2 covered, your home’s location may still be prone to flooding for a variety of reasons. In these instances, one should consider having a drainage system installed. There are several types of drains and combinations to consider. I recommend using at least 4†PVC piping rather than the corrugated black pastil variety. The PVC will outlast the black plastic and the plastic will crush (foot traffic) and clog easier.
In cases where large volumes of water must be dealt with, go to a 6†drainage pipe. Install drain basin with large grates in areas of accumulating water. A French Drain is another way of handling/moving drain water. It is essentially the same type of 4†PVC pipe but with perforation (holes) for water intake. A trench is dug, lined with landscape cloth and partially filled with lime gravel (or other gravel). The piping is encased in a sock (thin white cloth) to keep out soil, then the pipe is covered in the same lime gravel. A thin layer of sod can be placed over the drain to hide its existence.
A French Drain being installed, above.
4. Tie in your gutter downspouts to your drain system. This carries the water away from the home before it has a chance to become an issue. In some cases this may not be possible, but if the majority of the downspouts can be deposited into the drain system, the flooding risk is greatly reduced.
5. Emitters – These are commonly sold at the national franchise home improvement stores. They are the attachment placed at the end of the drain line which, by force of water, pops up and allows water to exit the drain system. However, with a lack of enough force, the pop up in not engaged and water is trapped in your drain system. Emitters are inherently restrictive by design.
6. If you have a drain system already in place, you must maintain it by clearing it once or twice a year. You can do this by simply removing the surface drain grates and flush out the debris in the pipes using a water hose at full capacity. If you have a second spigot you can use, a second flow will enhance your cleaning ability. Start at the drain furtherest from the water exit and work your way towards the end of the line. You can force the hose further and further, slowly, and get best results.
Some homes which have flooded recently could have avoided the heartache had their drains been properly maintenanced and clear.
After Effects of the Monsoon
While many, like myself, are celebrating the recent restoration of our lakes and groundwater sources via the historic rains, therein comes with it some things that we’ll soon be dealing with. Such as . . .
Insects
The environment is ripe for an insect population explosion. Right now, you may have noticed a larger than number of spiders and spider webs around your property. They know whats up. LOL Insects thrive where there’s moisture, heat and plenty of food. The rains have supplied the moisture and the vegetation that it brings. Be on the lookout for . . .
Scale – A white crusty substance you’ll want to check your Crape Myrtles and shrubbery for is actually an insect known as Scale. It feeds on the moisture of the host plant and will cause significant damage and even death in large infestations. Additionally, it secretes a sugary substance which draws in other unwanted insects, such as ants, which feed on the sugary substance.
Aphids – Like Scale, Aphids are an insect that will feed on Crape Myrtles, shrubbery and other small trees. They are small and can be green or black. They also feed on the plant’s moisture, causing significant damage. They also secrete a sugary substance which draws other insects in.
In the case of both the Scale and Aphids, a product readily available under several brand names called Malathion will knock out them out. For more assurance, treat twice, two weeks apart. Be sure to wear gloves and eyewear for protection. The product does carry a stark odor.
Fungus
Some homeowners may be seeing evidence of turf fungus in the lawn, namely brown patch or take-all patch or dollarspot. The diseases can be cured with a simple application of liquid or granular fungicide. However, with the increase in temperatures and drier weather, most any lawn fungus will not survive very much longer under those conditions.
Other plants in the landscape, such as Indian Hawthorns, Red Tip Photinas, Hollies and Crape Myrtles will suffer from a variety of other fungal diseases which will continue through the heat, thanks to the canopies the host provides.
Black Spot – Black spot is easy to identify as its name is the symptom it leaves behind. It is easily remedied with liquid fungicide treatments applied to the leaves and also poured at the base of the plant (systemically). Once leaves are infected with black spot, it will not clear up. The leaf will eventually die and drop, new ones will grow to replace.
Powerdery mildew – Another fungal disease that will be observed on the leaves on the plants. It also looks like its name indicates, a white powdery substance covering large portions of the leaves. This is also remedied using liquid fungicide.
Black Soot mold – A fungal disease that will attack both the leaves and the trunks/limbs of the plant. The leaves and woody sections will darken to a look resembling fireplace soot. This disease block photosynthesis from occurring and slowly causes decline and death. In addition to spraying a fungicide, it is also necessary to remove a large percentage of the soot from the plant using a soft, wet washcloth.
While fungus is easily treated, if left untreated it can cause damage and decline.
Chemically speaking . . .
It’s now time to apply that second round of fertilizer or weed/feed to your lawn. You’ve got through end of June to get it done. You’ll want to stick with a milder fertilizer this round as we head into the hottest months.
Do not feed your bedding plants anything with nitrogen in it at this time. Wait until the end of summer.
If you have not done so already, apply a grub killer to your lawn this month. Grubs typically begin feeding in June, but in some locations in Texas they began feeding very early. Most grub killers will kill other insects in the turf as well.
It is now hot enough for most weed killers to be effective. Stick to the recommended ratio when mixing so that you won’t burn turf.
Powerwashing . . .
Any homeowner can create a “new†look in their outdoor environment by simply reclaiming what was once new. Whether it be a picket fence or a flagstone or concrete patio complex, power washing can bring back the look you loved when it was installed.
Powerwashers can be rented from most equipment rental companies. You can rent for 2-4 hours or rent an entire day (24 hrs). I recommend you rent one with 3000 psi which will remove most anything you run into in concrete or wood.
Powerwashers will come with a wand and hose, but you will need to supply your own water hose. Operation is easy, but safety precautions should be observed. At 3000 psi, one can remove their toes rather easily if they’re not paying attention to what they’re doing.
I am often asked what pre-treatment I use. I’m sure they work fine but honestly, we haven’t needed to use them. I would assume the higher psi resolves that issue.
Question & Answer time . . .
Question: My petunias have bit the dust as soon as the temperatures got hot down here. What can I plant to replace them now that we’re in the middle of the season?
Answer: Your safest bet is going to be Begonias, if you can still find them. As the season wears on, the availability of flowers becomes more and more scarce. So don’t wait long. Pentas would also be a nice option. Both will see you through the end of summer.
Question: My new Autumn Blaze Maple, planted three weeks ago, now has some spots on the leaves. Not all the leaves, but about 1/3 of them. These are black spots, small in size. What’s wrong and what do I need to do?
Answer: That’s a fungus issue. However, treatment is likely not necessary as we’re heading into the hot part of the season. Conditions for that fungus to continue are increasingly less favorable. The leaves that have been affected will not go back to their original state. Eventually they will drop as new growth comes.
Question: With all the rain we’ve had so far, should I even be watering? I’ve had my sprinkler system turned off for the past month.
Answer: Yes, you should still be watering. Right now, I would recommend twice a week at 15 mins per zone (sprays) and 45 mins per zone (180 rotors). During weeks when we get rain, you can reduce that accordingly.
