Sirhornsalot
**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2013
- Messages
- 34,256
Wow, time flies when you’re having fun in the garden! We’re in the middle of fall now with Winter in site and the weather finally reflects that. The leaves on our deciduous trees are beginning to turn. What an exciting time to be outside!!
MISTLETOE – THE SLOW TREE KILLER
Mistletoe is a historic, fun Christmas tradition which men and women have used for ages to score kisses from their significant love interests. It’s engrained into American Christmas culture. In my opinion, it’s a good ending to a very bad thing.
Mistletoe is a hemiparasitic plant which attach to and penetrate the limbs of the host plant and absorb water and nutrients through the host plant. This is much like a leach will do to an animal or human. However, Mistletoe will grow larger and spread throughout a canopy of a tree and eventually kill it.
Prior to death of the host plant, the host plant will experience reduced growth and will kill the branches that it grows on. Once infestation sets in, the host tree will die in most cases.
Mistletoe is most easily seen in tree canopies of deciduous trees during the winter months when one can look into the canopy and see that the only thing green in the tree is the Mistletoe growing on it. This is the best time to remove it. Removing it entirely can be a difficult exercise, however, as it often grows on the ends of limbs which can be hard to get to in the upper canopies. A professional service is usually required to do this in medium to large trees. The Mistletoe must be removed totally, including the small rooted part that has grown into the limb. Failure to remove the part grown into the limb will mean the Mistletoe will return over time in the same location.
If you are not comfortable in a tree, do not attempt this.
Mistletoe is spread from tree to tree by birds which feed on its seeds. Many trees are resistant to Mistletoe but some that are vulnerable include Elms, Cedar Elms, Junipers and Pecan Trees.
Mistletoe is toxic, so do not consume it in any way.
One season winds down, another begins
Your mowing duties are slowing now as turf grass growth has begun the dormancy process due to the cooler temperatures. In a matter of weeks now, it will be dormant. The homeowner/landscaper’s duties will now change but are no less important than they are in the middle of July. You no longer worry with keeping the turf cut and watered. Now, it’s leaf collection through end of December, especially if you have mature adult deciduous trees near your home.
There are several ways of handling leaf collection. I’ll elaborate on a few of them.
1. Mulching your leaves. This is my preferred method of dealing with leaves. We basically blow out the beds and turf to where the leaves are in a single line pile. We then mow over them several times until the leaves are a fine mulched state. We then disperse this back into the turf with rakes.
2. Collect the leaves, bag them, take to an organic composting center near you. A materials (stone, soils, etc) vender near me will accept all the organic material I bring them. They turn it into compost.
3. Collect and compost the leaves yourself. When composting, remember that you need a good balance of dead and green matter to create a good decomposition rate.
4. Collect, bag and dispose via city collection.
Why do we need to collect and dispose of our leaves? Because they can become a fire hazard when left next to the house and around wood sources near the house.
If you’re bagging your own, here’s a tip on how to do it with more ease. Instead of picking the leaves up and placing them into a bag, lay the bag down beside your pile of leaves and push the leaves into the bag while holding the bag opening up with one hand. Much faster.
NOW IS THE TIME FOR THE TULIPS!
Get those Tulip bulbs planted now! Remember, the fat side of the bulb goes on bottom, at least three inches down! Make sure you use a soil with a heavy organic content to plant with. You’re at the end of the planting window, so don’t wait any longer.
Cover your vulnerable plants with freeze blankets to protect them during icy weather.
WINTER WEATHER IS COMING
Plan right now on how you’re going to protect your stuff! If you have potted plants on your patios, get them inside. Potted plants have the same issues going on as a highway bridge does in cold weather. Three sides are exposed to the elements so the root systems of the plant inside will take a real beating.
Plan to run your sprinkler system a nice long cycle the day before the cold front arrives. This will get your turf and beds very wet and thus they’ll be protected during the cold as it takes much colder temperatures to freeze soil when it’s wet than when it’s dry.
IF you have a XERISCAPE, then forget the previous paragraph. lol Desert-type plants have an instinct to absorb as much water as they can when water is made available. So having them fill up on water right before a freeze would cause the plant’s foliage to actually freeze easier. So do not water a xeriscape before a cold front arrives. Cover these plants if an ice storm is expected.
Once you run this cycle, turn your system off IF your system does not have a freeze sensor.
For plants you really don’t want to see at risk, employ the use of a freeze blanket to protect them. Make sure you secure the blankets down well as cold fronts are usually accompanied by high winds. They now make freeze blankets that are designed specifically for this purpose and are able to keep temperatures below the blanket at least five degrees warmer than on the outside.
LAVA SAND INSTEAD OF SALT
If we get ice - try opting for lava sand to put on driveways and sidewalks instead of salt. Salt kills. And after the ice is gone, it will end up in your turf and in your beds. Lava sand on the other hand will enhance your soil and turf. Your plants and grass will thank you. Lava sand gives great traction in ice. It can be purchased from Home Depot and Lowes.
MISTLETOE – THE SLOW TREE KILLER
Mistletoe is a historic, fun Christmas tradition which men and women have used for ages to score kisses from their significant love interests. It’s engrained into American Christmas culture. In my opinion, it’s a good ending to a very bad thing.
Mistletoe is a hemiparasitic plant which attach to and penetrate the limbs of the host plant and absorb water and nutrients through the host plant. This is much like a leach will do to an animal or human. However, Mistletoe will grow larger and spread throughout a canopy of a tree and eventually kill it.
Prior to death of the host plant, the host plant will experience reduced growth and will kill the branches that it grows on. Once infestation sets in, the host tree will die in most cases.
Mistletoe is most easily seen in tree canopies of deciduous trees during the winter months when one can look into the canopy and see that the only thing green in the tree is the Mistletoe growing on it. This is the best time to remove it. Removing it entirely can be a difficult exercise, however, as it often grows on the ends of limbs which can be hard to get to in the upper canopies. A professional service is usually required to do this in medium to large trees. The Mistletoe must be removed totally, including the small rooted part that has grown into the limb. Failure to remove the part grown into the limb will mean the Mistletoe will return over time in the same location.
If you are not comfortable in a tree, do not attempt this.
Mistletoe is spread from tree to tree by birds which feed on its seeds. Many trees are resistant to Mistletoe but some that are vulnerable include Elms, Cedar Elms, Junipers and Pecan Trees.
Mistletoe is toxic, so do not consume it in any way.
One season winds down, another begins
Your mowing duties are slowing now as turf grass growth has begun the dormancy process due to the cooler temperatures. In a matter of weeks now, it will be dormant. The homeowner/landscaper’s duties will now change but are no less important than they are in the middle of July. You no longer worry with keeping the turf cut and watered. Now, it’s leaf collection through end of December, especially if you have mature adult deciduous trees near your home.
There are several ways of handling leaf collection. I’ll elaborate on a few of them.
1. Mulching your leaves. This is my preferred method of dealing with leaves. We basically blow out the beds and turf to where the leaves are in a single line pile. We then mow over them several times until the leaves are a fine mulched state. We then disperse this back into the turf with rakes.
2. Collect the leaves, bag them, take to an organic composting center near you. A materials (stone, soils, etc) vender near me will accept all the organic material I bring them. They turn it into compost.
3. Collect and compost the leaves yourself. When composting, remember that you need a good balance of dead and green matter to create a good decomposition rate.
4. Collect, bag and dispose via city collection.
Why do we need to collect and dispose of our leaves? Because they can become a fire hazard when left next to the house and around wood sources near the house.
If you’re bagging your own, here’s a tip on how to do it with more ease. Instead of picking the leaves up and placing them into a bag, lay the bag down beside your pile of leaves and push the leaves into the bag while holding the bag opening up with one hand. Much faster.
NOW IS THE TIME FOR THE TULIPS!
Get those Tulip bulbs planted now! Remember, the fat side of the bulb goes on bottom, at least three inches down! Make sure you use a soil with a heavy organic content to plant with. You’re at the end of the planting window, so don’t wait any longer.
Cover your vulnerable plants with freeze blankets to protect them during icy weather.
WINTER WEATHER IS COMING
Plan right now on how you’re going to protect your stuff! If you have potted plants on your patios, get them inside. Potted plants have the same issues going on as a highway bridge does in cold weather. Three sides are exposed to the elements so the root systems of the plant inside will take a real beating.
Plan to run your sprinkler system a nice long cycle the day before the cold front arrives. This will get your turf and beds very wet and thus they’ll be protected during the cold as it takes much colder temperatures to freeze soil when it’s wet than when it’s dry.
IF you have a XERISCAPE, then forget the previous paragraph. lol Desert-type plants have an instinct to absorb as much water as they can when water is made available. So having them fill up on water right before a freeze would cause the plant’s foliage to actually freeze easier. So do not water a xeriscape before a cold front arrives. Cover these plants if an ice storm is expected.
Once you run this cycle, turn your system off IF your system does not have a freeze sensor.
For plants you really don’t want to see at risk, employ the use of a freeze blanket to protect them. Make sure you secure the blankets down well as cold fronts are usually accompanied by high winds. They now make freeze blankets that are designed specifically for this purpose and are able to keep temperatures below the blanket at least five degrees warmer than on the outside.
LAVA SAND INSTEAD OF SALT
If we get ice - try opting for lava sand to put on driveways and sidewalks instead of salt. Salt kills. And after the ice is gone, it will end up in your turf and in your beds. Lava sand on the other hand will enhance your soil and turf. Your plants and grass will thank you. Lava sand gives great traction in ice. It can be purchased from Home Depot and Lowes.