Sirhornsalot
**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2013
- Messages
- 35,115
We’ll start this edition off with a trivia question:
Q: What is the driest month of the year in Texas?
A: Lots of folks will answer with “July†but they’d be wrong. January is our driest month of the year for most of Texas, averaging slightly less rainfall than the month of July does.
Combine the lack of rain with the fact that January typically has a lot of windy cold fronts that move through and the set up exists for plant/tree/shrub stress.
During the summer, you can easily tell when one of your plants isn’t getting enough water. The foliage will droop or become discolored. But during the winter, the foliage isn’t there on most plants to let you know water is needed.
That’s significant because a lot of homeowners turn off their sprinkler systems for the winter months. Homeowners should continue to water their lawns and landscapes once a week through January and first half of February.
Sprinkler systems that have been installed in the last decade will have a “freeze sensor†which will not allow the system to come on when temperatures are near freezing. This protects the system and the homeowner from having to make untimely repairs due to cracked pipes caused by ice or hard freezes.
Aeration/topdressing
The end of January and beginning of February is the ideal time for aerating your lawn and replenishing minerals and nutrients in the soil by applying a compost topdressing.
You would want to aerate first, then follow with the topdressing.
The aeration is something that should be done to a lawn at least once every 3-4 years. However, I recommend it be done every 2 years as to maximize the benefits more frequently.
Aeration is done by puncturing holes into the turf that are about 4 inches deep. A gas-powered aerator is usually the tool to use for this job. Operating an aerator is much like operating a tiller. If you’re going to do this yourself, make sure you mark the sprinkler heads first with small flags so as to not damage them during the aeration process.
Aeration enables the soil to trap and hold more oxygen, loosens the soil, and promotes healthier root growth in the turf. By applying the compost topdressing right after, much of the organic content will fall into these holes, improving the soil and putting the nutrients down there at the root level.
With these two jobs combined, your turf is set for the emergence from dormancy and a great spring “bounce.†Email me at greenthumbtx@verizon.net if you're interested in having this done to your Austin area, DFW area or Longview/Tyler area lawn.
Wonderful compost!
Pre Emergent!
There is a third step to the aeration/topdressing process, it’s called pre emergent. You will want to apply a granular pre emergent over the top of the topdressing. Apply heavily for this application as you’re fending off the onslaught of spring weeds, which will germinate by mid-February. Pre emergent prevents germination. The heavier you apply, the more protection you receive.
Even if you do not perform an aeration/topdressing, I highly recommend you go ahead and apply the pre emergent. This application is the first of three you’ll do for the year, the other two coming in late August and mid-November.
Pre emergent is not a product you can apply and expect immediate results. It is a product that works over time. If you’ve never done it before, I advise you to take a photo of your lawn now. Apply pre emergent the three times during the year that I recommend. Then shoot another picture of the lawn at the same time the following year. More benefits will be observed in years 2 and 3.
At my own place, I have a neighbor who refuses to spend a cent on his lawn. It’s a weed factory. And you can literally tell where the property line is because of the pre emergent I’ve applied over the years.
If you’re shopping Lowes or HD, look for a product in a 40 lb bag called “crabgrass preventer†or “weed preventer.†That’s pre emergent. If you have access to buying commercial products, use Barricade 0-0-7. It’s fabulous.
Mulch/Trees
One issue I often see, especially in landscapes where a homebuilder has installed the landscape, is the choking of trees by piling mulch over the root flare. I say choking in a literal sense. It is the same as if I were placing my hands around your neck and slowly squeezing. Trees should be planted where the root flare (bottom of the trunk) is at least an inch above the surrounding terrain. This provides for proper drainage AWAY from the base of the tree. You do not want water/rain draining back to the trunk.
In the picture you can see an example of a tree planted too low and consequently the improper installation of mulch around it. If left this way, this tree will slowly die.
If you have a relatively new home (1-2 years) and observe this issue in your landscape, it’s not too late to replant the tree properly and redo the mulch around it. It’s so worth it in the long run because the growth rate, health and appearance of your tree will improve greatly, if planted correctly. It will suffer, struggle and look haggard if not. Some tree are able to overcome this problem over time, with luck.
Shout Out!
I want to give a big shout out to Chad (you know who you are) of Round Rock. He’s a Hornsports member whom I met just yesterday to consult with him about his landscape. While there, he reminded me that the January Landscape Thread was late and that he depends on these threads to keep up with his own landscape.
It thrills me to hear that and I apologize for the tardiness of this edition, but recruiting news kind of dominated for the first several days of the month. I didn’t want to intrude on that.
Reminders/Notes
1. If you have pansies in your landscape, this is a great time to fertilize them. Use a water-soluble, mild fertilizer made for blooming plants. If you have access to higher grade products (like if you know a landscaper), you can choose from a product made especially for pansies by Carl Pool. There is also a product called “Color Star†that works very well, too.
2. If you have over seeded your bermuda lawn with winter rye, now is the time to hit it with a 25-0-0 (or lower) fertilizer. Rye must be fertilized to keep it looking its best. Water well immediately after applying.
3. Now is a great time to have your mower serviced. Most any lawn mower dealer will offer repair services. Take your mower in, have them change the oil, sharpen the blade and change the spark plug. Those three items will go a long way toward keeping your mower’s performance at top level this season. It’s not nearly as expensive as you might think.
If anyone has questions they'd like to ask – Fire Away! I'd be glad to address anything you want to talk about in the landscape! I can also be reached via email at greenthumbtx@verizon.net
Q: What is the driest month of the year in Texas?
A: Lots of folks will answer with “July†but they’d be wrong. January is our driest month of the year for most of Texas, averaging slightly less rainfall than the month of July does.
Combine the lack of rain with the fact that January typically has a lot of windy cold fronts that move through and the set up exists for plant/tree/shrub stress.
During the summer, you can easily tell when one of your plants isn’t getting enough water. The foliage will droop or become discolored. But during the winter, the foliage isn’t there on most plants to let you know water is needed.
That’s significant because a lot of homeowners turn off their sprinkler systems for the winter months. Homeowners should continue to water their lawns and landscapes once a week through January and first half of February.
Sprinkler systems that have been installed in the last decade will have a “freeze sensor†which will not allow the system to come on when temperatures are near freezing. This protects the system and the homeowner from having to make untimely repairs due to cracked pipes caused by ice or hard freezes.
Aeration/topdressing
The end of January and beginning of February is the ideal time for aerating your lawn and replenishing minerals and nutrients in the soil by applying a compost topdressing.
You would want to aerate first, then follow with the topdressing.
The aeration is something that should be done to a lawn at least once every 3-4 years. However, I recommend it be done every 2 years as to maximize the benefits more frequently.
Aeration is done by puncturing holes into the turf that are about 4 inches deep. A gas-powered aerator is usually the tool to use for this job. Operating an aerator is much like operating a tiller. If you’re going to do this yourself, make sure you mark the sprinkler heads first with small flags so as to not damage them during the aeration process.
Aeration enables the soil to trap and hold more oxygen, loosens the soil, and promotes healthier root growth in the turf. By applying the compost topdressing right after, much of the organic content will fall into these holes, improving the soil and putting the nutrients down there at the root level.
With these two jobs combined, your turf is set for the emergence from dormancy and a great spring “bounce.†Email me at greenthumbtx@verizon.net if you're interested in having this done to your Austin area, DFW area or Longview/Tyler area lawn.
Wonderful compost!
Pre Emergent!
There is a third step to the aeration/topdressing process, it’s called pre emergent. You will want to apply a granular pre emergent over the top of the topdressing. Apply heavily for this application as you’re fending off the onslaught of spring weeds, which will germinate by mid-February. Pre emergent prevents germination. The heavier you apply, the more protection you receive.
Even if you do not perform an aeration/topdressing, I highly recommend you go ahead and apply the pre emergent. This application is the first of three you’ll do for the year, the other two coming in late August and mid-November.
Pre emergent is not a product you can apply and expect immediate results. It is a product that works over time. If you’ve never done it before, I advise you to take a photo of your lawn now. Apply pre emergent the three times during the year that I recommend. Then shoot another picture of the lawn at the same time the following year. More benefits will be observed in years 2 and 3.
At my own place, I have a neighbor who refuses to spend a cent on his lawn. It’s a weed factory. And you can literally tell where the property line is because of the pre emergent I’ve applied over the years.
If you’re shopping Lowes or HD, look for a product in a 40 lb bag called “crabgrass preventer†or “weed preventer.†That’s pre emergent. If you have access to buying commercial products, use Barricade 0-0-7. It’s fabulous.
Mulch/Trees
One issue I often see, especially in landscapes where a homebuilder has installed the landscape, is the choking of trees by piling mulch over the root flare. I say choking in a literal sense. It is the same as if I were placing my hands around your neck and slowly squeezing. Trees should be planted where the root flare (bottom of the trunk) is at least an inch above the surrounding terrain. This provides for proper drainage AWAY from the base of the tree. You do not want water/rain draining back to the trunk.
In the picture you can see an example of a tree planted too low and consequently the improper installation of mulch around it. If left this way, this tree will slowly die.
If you have a relatively new home (1-2 years) and observe this issue in your landscape, it’s not too late to replant the tree properly and redo the mulch around it. It’s so worth it in the long run because the growth rate, health and appearance of your tree will improve greatly, if planted correctly. It will suffer, struggle and look haggard if not. Some tree are able to overcome this problem over time, with luck.
Shout Out!
I want to give a big shout out to Chad (you know who you are) of Round Rock. He’s a Hornsports member whom I met just yesterday to consult with him about his landscape. While there, he reminded me that the January Landscape Thread was late and that he depends on these threads to keep up with his own landscape.
It thrills me to hear that and I apologize for the tardiness of this edition, but recruiting news kind of dominated for the first several days of the month. I didn’t want to intrude on that.
Reminders/Notes
1. If you have pansies in your landscape, this is a great time to fertilize them. Use a water-soluble, mild fertilizer made for blooming plants. If you have access to higher grade products (like if you know a landscaper), you can choose from a product made especially for pansies by Carl Pool. There is also a product called “Color Star†that works very well, too.
2. If you have over seeded your bermuda lawn with winter rye, now is the time to hit it with a 25-0-0 (or lower) fertilizer. Rye must be fertilized to keep it looking its best. Water well immediately after applying.
3. Now is a great time to have your mower serviced. Most any lawn mower dealer will offer repair services. Take your mower in, have them change the oil, sharpen the blade and change the spark plug. Those three items will go a long way toward keeping your mower’s performance at top level this season. It’s not nearly as expensive as you might think.
If anyone has questions they'd like to ask – Fire Away! I'd be glad to address anything you want to talk about in the landscape! I can also be reached via email at greenthumbtx@verizon.net
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